Whats in my pack for Scrambling?
In this article I'm going to look at what I take with me for a day in the mountains when I go scrambling. I'm going to pack for a couple of different scenarios so you can see what changes depending on my objective for the day.
Firstly I'll look at what I carry on a classic grade one scramble. A good example of this might be the North Ridge of Tryfan, Crib Goch, Striding Edge or Jacks Rake. These are essentially walking routes, all be it with huge drops and a great sense of exposure.
Whats to take Grade One Scrambling?
Guidebook – you've got to know where to go! If I'm unsure of my route, or expect that a venue might be busy (Snowdonia at the weekend!) then I always take the guidebook for reference. It can be good to reassure you that you're going the right way or have to hand in order to find a different route if it's really busy or the weather conditions mean you don't want to attempt your planned route. The new Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles Rockfax is a great example of a modern guidebook done right. I also have the Rockfax app on my phone, or will take photos of the relevant pages of the book for quick access.
Map and Compass – The weather in the mountains can change really quickly, so having a map and compass and knowing how to use them is essential. Getting to the top of a scramble and finding yourself in thick cloud and unable to see your way down is a quick way to cause an epic! Make sure your map is folded to the correct area and in a good quality waterproof map case. I usually use an A5 size map case as when scrambling as you tend not to travel a huge distance. I also have a whistle and pacing card on my compass laynyard just to make life easy or get help in an emergancy. The Viewranger app or another similar GPS mapping app installed on your smartphone is a good backup to have with you. Make sure your phone is fully charged too!
Headtorch – Headtorches are super light and super bright these days. Theres no excuse not to have one in your bag in case you're slower than expected (especially important in the autumn once the clocks change!)
Sunglasses – You can but hope!
Bothy Bag and First Aid Kit – A bothy bag is worth it's weight if something does go wrong. Mostly mine is used for eating lunch in on inclement days, but it's good to know you've got some shelter should something unexpected occur. My mini first aid kit has everything to deal with minor common complaints plus a big trauma bandage just in case.
Hat and Gloves – As before, mountain weather can be very changeable. In hot weather I'll take a sun hat and light pair of leather gloves to protect my hands, in cool or cold weather, a warm hat plus an extra spare pair of warm gloves or mittens too.
Clothing - Usually I will wear a pair of lightweight softshell trousers in good weather or a pair of Vapourise Guide pants in cooler temperatures. Add a lightweight synthetic baselayer and a decent hi-loft fleece for a good layering system which will work in most temperatures. For cold days I take an extra synthetic fill gillet as a booster layer.
Footwear - Some lightweight boots are my choice for scrambling, but any grippy footwear should do the job if it’s dry. For wet days I will always wear a pair of lightweight waterproof boots and recommend clients do the same.
Waterproofs - Most days I will take a full pair of waterproof jacket and pants. I might leave my waterproofs at home on a perfect forecast day, but more often than not they will come with me. Any fool can get wet, and once your wet it's easy to get cold quickly. On a warm and fine day with a perfect forecast I will just take a lightweight softshell just to keep the wind at bay once I'm up high.
Warm Jacket – A lightweight primaloft jacket is a great addition in your pack in case it's a bit cooler than anticipated or you need an extra layer when you stop moving. Jackets like this pack down so small and are so light to carry it's no trouble taking an extra layer. Primaloft is my choice of insulation for a warm layer because it retains it's insulating properties even when it's wet, and lets face it, the UK does have a rather wet climate. It's definitely preferable to anything down filled which will just end up as a soggy mess in all but the driest, coldest, weather.
Food and Drink – A bit of a personal choice; in summer I will carry around 1l of water and in cooler weather 500ml of hot juice. Most of the time in the mountains in the UK you're fairly near to a water source most of the day so I don't feel the need to carry a lot with me. Obviously some people drink more than others so this is of course up to you. Don't forget lunch, plus some extra snacks in case the day ends up being a bit longer than expected.
Helmet – If you are going out of your way to ascend steep ground then a helmet to protect against anything falling is a great idea, especially if you are somewhere busy with other teams scrambling around you. A classic airy ridge walk such as Striding Edge probably doesn't require a lid, but anywhere that you might be in the firing line from rocks knocked off from above I would pack one. Modern helmets are so light and unobtrusive it's not much of a chore to put one in the top of your pack.
Phone - I don’t know anyone who goes into the hills without their mobile! Definitely an essential item.
Extra (essential?) Items – I always carry my camera, you never know when the weather is going to give you a magical view! If it's a particularly long (and uphill) walk to get to a scramble then I might consider taking walking poles. Look for a really lightweight pair which fold up small enough to go in your pack. If they stick out the top they will catch on every overhanging rock you go past. I also carry a small knife such as a Petzl Spatha for use with my first aid kit or slicing salami at lunch time. Don't forget the suncream if you manage to bag a day with a glorious forecast.
Whats in my pack for grade two and three scrambles?
In addition to the above list of gear, once you get on to grade two and three scrambles you'll probably want think about taking a rope, basic climbing rack, harness and helmet (plus learning to how to use them if you don't have a climbing background already. Check out our scrambling courses here).
I will generally take the same equipment for a grade two or three, the difference being that a grade two might only require the rope for a short section, where as a grade 3 scramble might be treated like an easy rock climb.
Harness – Something lightweight and basic is fine for scrambling. You're not going to be taking hanging belays or catching falls (hopefully) so any minimal alpine or lightweight sport style harness should be fine. I've been using a Petzl Sitta for a couple of seasons which does the trick.
Rope – A single rated rope around 40m is perfect for scrambling. For occasional use on a grade two I might carry something like a skinny 30m 8.9mm Edelrid Swift Protect Pro to save on weight, but if it's going to see some more use during the day, or have three people tied to it when guiding then I'll use a chunkier 9.5mm 40m rope.
Rack – A rack is a basic set of climbing equipment you can use to protect yourself and your partner when climbing short pitches on a scramble. To read more about buying your first rack you can read my article about it here.
A lot of rack choice comes down to personal preference and confidence in your gear finding abilities. In general for a grade two or three I will carry the following:
An assorted set of DMM wallnuts: 3-8, 9, 10 & 11
Two large DMM hexes on wire or two extra large Wild Country nuts (pictured).
Three cams – 0.5, 0.75 and 1 (grey, green and red), racked on individual colour coordinated snap gate carabiners
3x 60cm sling draws
3x 120cm slings with locking carabiners. I like the Edelrid Aramid and Mammut
Magic slings for easy use and untying
1x 240cm sling with large locking HMS carabiner
Two spare locking HMS carabiners
Belay plate
Nut Key
Prussik
Piece of abseil tat in case of retreat (not shown). I like to use 7mm or thicker, old retired climbing ropes can be a good source of abseil tat.
Knife, spare prussiks, whistle, all racked on a DMM revolver.
Each other party member should also carry their own 120cm sling on a locking carabiner, belay plate, nut key, prussik and a couple of spare locking carabiners, along with their own personal gear of harness, helmet etc.
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