How to Choose Crampons

The first things which spring to mind any time a climber mentions snow and ice are the spiky tools required to keep safe when the mountains are under winter conditions. From the invention of the rudimentary 10 point crampon by Oscar Eckenstein in 1900s, the pioneering development and production by the Grivel family, through to modern technical monopoints and ultra lightweight specialised crampons, these key pieces of equipment have enabled the cutting edge of winter climbing and mountaineering for over a hundred years. After extensive evolution there are now a bewildering range of models on the market: what exactly are the best crampons and how do you choose them?

Firstly, there are no actually 'bad' modern crampons on the market produced by any of the large and reputable gear manufactures. You probably want to ignore those really cheap Chinese ones you found on eBay for a bargain price: when you're front pointing down a 60 degree slope covered in black ice with a pair of novelty crampons strapped to your boots, you wont be thinking of the £60 you saved, trust me! But you do want to make sure whatever you choose is suitable for the activities you intend to use them for and that they are a good fit for your winter boots. In this guide I'm going to look at the myriad of options available to help you decide, but it's worth taking your boots to a good outdoor retailer to check that the latest in ultra high tech asymmetrical ice climbing crampons you've chosen are actually a good fit for those 25 year old, ridged plastic, high altitude boots you've been keeping in the back of the cupboard just in case Kinder Downfall freezes. No matter which crampons you think you need, the actual fit on your boots is paramount.

What are crampons?

Very basically, crampons are a set of metal spikes which can be attached to the bottom of a boot to provide traction on snowy or icy surfaces. From walking on glaciers, Scottish winter Munros, climbing frozen waterfalls or mixed climbing in Scotland, crampons all provide grip on surfaces which would be otherwise impossible to stand or climb on.

Crampon Types

Crampons range from Microspikes which slip over any shoe to provide some grip on icy valley level paths, walking and general mountaineering crampons suitable for Scottish mountains in the winter, through to technical crampons designed for climbing steep ice and rock. Many people will have seen the rating system of C1, C2 & C3 for crampons and B1, B2 & B3 for boots. This gives a good starting point to understand what each broad type of crampon is for.

Microspikes: These are great for walking to the shops in if it's a bit icy or for occasional use on trail runs where an icy path might slow you down. The lightweight nature of microspikes means they're not robust enough to be relied upon in serious conditions where a slip could be life threatening. Any time where this situation might arise it's worth taking proper boots and crampons.

C1 Crampons: These are flexible walking crampons for winter hillwalking and glacier travel. They can be fitted to B1, B2 or B3 boots. Often with 10 points and low profile spikes, they are far comfier to walk in than technical climbing crampons. Usually C1 crampons have fully strap on attachment systems using a cradle for the toe and heel and thus can be fitted to any boot. Examples of modern C1 crampons are the Petzl IRVIS and Grivel G10.

C2 Crampons: These are the best all around crampons for general mountaineering, alpinism, climbing Scottish Munros in the winter, winter scrambling in the UK and easy winter climbing. These crampons are stiffer than C1 crampons and usually have more aggressive spikes which allow for easier front pointing, but most are still flexible enough to be comfortable to walk in. C2 crampons often have a leaver attachment on the heel requiring suitable B2 or B3 boots and a toe basket on the front. Examples of C2 crampons are the Petzl VASAK, Grivel Air Tech.

C3 Crampons: Crampons designed for steep ice, frozen waterfalls, mixed climbing and drytooling. These are the stiffest crampons available and the best crampons for use on steep terrain when climbing, but are uncomfortable to walk in for any serious length of time. With a heel leaver attachment and usually a metal rail for the toe, C3 crampons are only compatible with stiff B3 boots designed to take a technical crampon. Modern C3 crampons include the Petzl Dart, Petzl Lynx, and Grivel G14.

Binding Types

Crampons come with a variety of different binding or attachment types.

Strap On/Flexlock/New Classic: Usually for flexible walking crampons, a strap on crampon has a plastic heel and toe basket attached with a length of nylon webbing which is pulled tight through a buckle to hold them onto a boot. The benefit of this system is that they will fit any winter boot but they can be fiddly and time consuming to fit and tighten (especially with gloves on). Even with a really good fit there is always some movement between the boot and crampon making them sometimes feel insecure on steep or hard icy ground.

Hybrid/Newmatic/Leaverlock: The combination binding of a heel leaver with a toe basket. These require the moulded plastic heel welts of a B2 or B3 boot but do not require the moulded toe of a B3. The nylon webbing on a hybrid crampon binding pulls the toe of the crampon tight against the fixed heel leaver for a secure fit. A good binding choice for a crampon which will fit a variety of boots and will be securely attached for use on steep ground for scrambling and mountaineering.

Step In/Cramp-O-Matic: These crampons have a metal rail at the toe which sits in the moulded plastic lip of a B3 boot coupled with a heel leaver. This provides a really secure binding for attaching the crampon for activities like Scottish mixed climbing, ice climbing and drytooling where the crampon is subjected to lots of three dimensional forces. The nylon webbing on a cramp-o-matic binding keeps the crampon secured to the ankle in case of a binding failure and stops the heel leaver being accidentally opened, but it is not part of the strength of the crampon.

GSB: The Grivel-Scarpa binding. This system is a legacy binding which didn't catch on and required Scarpa boots with a specially shaped insert to attach a Grivel crampon with matching toe bail. You won't see many GSB crampons these days but good to know that they used to exist.

Points

Number of Points

Most modern crampon designs have 4 points under the heel with the rest on the forefoot section of the crampon. Classic C1 walking crampons typically have 10 points in total with more technical crampons having 12 or 14 points. Crampons for walking and general mountaineering like the Grivel Air Tech have slightly shorter points than climbing orientated C3 crampons which make them easier to walk in as they required less lift of the foot with each step. Crampon points are usually made of steel but some aluminium alloy versions are available. These are primarily designed for use ski touring or for glacier travel where it's unlikely they will be used on rock. For mountaineering in Scotland or anywhere else where you will encounter lots of bare rock, soft aluminium alloy crampons aren't recommended as they will wear down quickly.

Front Points

A variety of front points are available depending on the intended activity.

Horizontal Front Points: e.g Grivel Air Tech/Petzl IRVIS. These flat, horizontally aligned front points give good grip in soft snow and easy ice but aren't as precise as vertical front points. They are good for walking, mountaineering and easy climbing, but poor for harder technical climbing such as mixed climbing in Scotland. Crampons with horizontal front points usually have a one piece front section of the crampon and the points are not replaceable when they wear out.

Vertical Front Points: eg. Petzl Dart/Grivel G14. These serrated front points give good purchase in steep ice and can be placed with precision on mixed climbs allowing climbers to stand securely on tiny footholds. Many modern crampons with vertical front points have removable points allowing the worn parts to be (relatively) cheaply replaced.

T Shaped/Hybrid Points: eg. Petzl SARKEN. These are a modern front point style combining the wide horizontal front point which is good on snow with the serrated vertical point for use on ice and mixed. A really good all around choice.

Mono and Dual Front Points: Monopoints are a dream for tricky ice, hard mixed climbing or drytooling as they allow the crampon to be used as precisely as a rock shoe. Duel front points allow a climber to stand more securely on their front points as they don't allow the foot to rotate as much as a monopoint. Duel points are a better choice for easier angled ice and mixed and for any classic mountaineering crampon.

Modular Front Points: For the climber who can't decide or often needs a choice, modular front sections allow the user to change from mono to dual front points, or even offset front points with a long mono point and a shorter secondary point for stability when ice climbing.

Accessories

Anti-Balling Plates: These are flexible soft plastic plates which clip onto the underside of a crampon, in between the points. Most modern crampons now come complete with anti-balling plates and these are vital to stop damp snow building up under the crampon which can be a dangerous slip hazard, especially in the common wet conditions found in the Scottish mountains.

Flexible & Extension Bars: The bars joining the two halves of a crampon together are replaceable and can be changed for more flexible bars for use with walking crampons and softer boots or longer bars for bigger boot sizes.

Crampon Bags: These are a must to keep your sharp new crampons from wrecking your brand new ultralight down jacket and filling your rucksack with loose feathers! Good quality heavy canvas is usually the best choice of fabric for a long life crampon bag. Rubber point covers seem like a good idea but are very fiddly in practice: a crampon bag is a much quicker option for regular use. Spare Parts: Always take some spare crampon parts and the tools to replace them when on an extended trip and some basics for repairs any time you go climbing. Zip ties and a spare nylon crampon strap are a good addition to your pack for makeshift repairs.

Gaiters: Choose a pair of winter trousers with built in kick patches or wear a pair of gaiters over the top to protect your instep from sharp crampon points.

Crampon Care

Make sure you air dry your crampons fully before putting them away, and consider giving them a sharpen periodically, especially if you're going to be climbing ice. This video from REI https://www.you tube.com/watch?v=WsbxEGSkUcA gives a good example of how to sharpen your crampons. Always use a hand file and never a power tool to avoid damaging the heat hardened points. Long crampon straps can be trimmed down so that they don't catch on clothing/boots.

Don't forget to trim your crampon straps down before you head out on the hill!